SEK TRAVELS

Home to the nation’s capital, the island of Zealand is Denmark’s cultural and political heart. Characterised by stunning architecture, pristine seaside villages and rolling hills, it’s the first port of call for any visitor looking to experience a bit of Danish hygge. On the island’s northern tip, you’ll find a town that encapsulates all of this – the town of Helsingør.

Marked by an imposing fortress, the town’s history is inescapable, but so too is its beauty. From a slew of independent shops to picture-perfect timber-framed houses, it makes for a great Danish day trip.

Things To Do

(1) Witness the Many Legends of Kronborg Castle

Kronborg casts an imposing shadow across the Øresund. Its stern, fortress-like façade brings with it a type of bleak beauty that easily conjures inspiration for a Danish dark tragedy. Beyond the vivid fantasy, however, the reality of this castle is somewhat different. Completed by King Frederick II by the end of the 16^th century, the castle was used to invite dignitaries from all over the world to enjoy palatial banquets and parties. A raucous place during that time, it quickly gained the moniker of Denmark’s party castle. As you explore the castle’s upper floors, its exhibits explain in more detail the need for a good party before leading to an impressively gigantic banquet hall, which resonates with ancient revellers.

Beneath Kronborg’s spectacular party rooms lies another legend, Holger the Dane. You’ll find him sitting within the bowels of the castle’s casemates, waiting to awaken and defend Denmark during its darkest hour.

Further on from Denmark’s mightiest warrior is a short tour of the castle’s cellars. Dark and creepy, you’ll never find a better place to tell a ghost story!  

(2) Meander Through Helsingør’s Historic Heart

Although most visitors who venture out to Helsingør come to experience the castle that sparked the inspiration for Hamlet, there’s plenty of history to be found within the old town. On its well-preserved cobblestone streets, you’ll find photogenic timber-framed houses of vibrant yellows and flashy reds, all of which are just the right style of crooked. For the best examples, head south of Stengade. This is where you’ll find the oldest houses in the town. All built around 1577, the surrounding environment is filled with leafy shrubbery and the absence of traffic noise, instantly taking you back to a lost period in history.

Not all of Helsingør’s interesting architecture is medieval. If you arrive by train, the town’s main station makes for a feast for the eyes. Built in 1891, it is a grandiose affair both inside and out. Those who have already explored the capital will notice its striking resemblance to Rosenborg Castle, which heavily inspired its architect, Niels Holsøe.

(3) Uncover a Hidden Puzzle Shop

Hidden in the courtyard of one of the town’s many timbered historic buildings is a shop small enough to be missed at first glance. Marked only by a Danish flag is the Puslespilsbutikken, a gift shop specialising in all sorts of interesting puzzles. Even if you’re not a puzzle enthusiast, this shop is certainly worth perusing, as it is fit to bursting with everything from commercialised puzzles to colourful Danish jigsaws.  

(4) Take a Trip to Sweden

As you walk along one of the town’s many coastal paths, you’ll often catch sight of your Swedish neighbour, as if teasing you into an even greater adventure. With only 4 miles separating Helsingør and its Swedish neighbour, Helsingborg, a trip across the water is more than doable. Taking just 20 minutes from the ferry terminal next to the train station, and leaving every half hour, you’ll be able to discover Helsingborg icons such as the Kärnan tower in no time.

(5) Hang Out Around the Kulturværftet

Helsingør harbour sees a prominent mix of old and new and makes for a worthy diversion before reaching Kronborg Castle. The area has several museums as well as the striking, ultra-modern Culture Yard.

Be sure to check out the harbour’s sleekly designed Maritime Museum. Located underground, it’s a unique spot that offers exhibits on Danish seafaring history. Afterwards, why not grab a quick bite from the Shipyard food market, which offers a wide array of cuisines to sample.  

Food and Drink

Helsingør has a wealth of cutting-edge cafes and restaurants, sure to satiate the appetite of any prospective visitor. No visit to Kronberg Castle is complete without putting your feet up at the Strandvejsristeriet. Located in a bright, yellow building within the castle complex, what was once the soldiers’ cafeteria is now an independently run café and the oldest roastery in North Zealand. Owned by Peter and Mille, their ethos is to bring only the highest-quality coffee to the streets of Helsingør. An ethos that becomes apparent as you watch beans being freshly roasted while you sip your favoured choice of caffeine shot.

For travellers looking for something more substantial whilst taking in the sea air or walking the cobbled streets, Helsingør has got you covered. The Shipyard food market, just outside of Hamlet’s Castle, hosts a number of pop-up stalls offering a myriad of different cuisines, from Danish classics to more exotic flavours. Meanwhile, the old town sports endless possibilities for a good meal. For a sense of that classic Danish hygge (cosiness/contentment), try The Copenhagener, just off the main shopping street. Like a time capsule to a bygone era, you’ll recognise the building from a mile away, with beer tankards of all shapes and sizes filling the windows.

When To Go

While Helsingør is accessible year-round, it is best to visit during the warmer months (spring/summer). Not only are there greater chances for clear blue skies (perfect for those wanting to get the best shot), but during this season, the town comes alive with activity. During the summer months, Helsingør holds two important festivals – the PASSAGE Festival and the Shakespeare Festival at Hamlet’s Castle. Both events make for great opportunities to delve deeper into the heart and soul of the region.

How To Get There

Reaching Helsingør is a breeze from the capital, Copenhagen, with several direct methods all taking under an hour. However, for the most scenic route, I recommend taking the coastal train. Conveniently stopping at three of the capital’s largest stations (Central, Nørreport, and Østerport), it gently weaves its way between land and sea, offering crystal-clear views of the Øresund in good weather. Once in Helsingør, getting around is easy. Sites such as the old town and Kronberg Castle are all within a short, walkable distance.

If you have some extra time on your hands, the coastal train to Helsingør also passes by other areas of interest. From Humlebæk station, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is within easy walking distance. Closer to Copenhagen, Rungsted Kyst station will get you within a stone’s throw of the Karen Blixen Museum, author of Out of Africa.