SEK TRAVELS

Nestled beneath rugged, unspoilt landscapes and marked by the nation’s most infamous legends and heroes, the market town of Ruthin is one few forget. Located close to the English border, this thriving community of just under 6000 has seen itself moulded by its fair share of history. It has walkable streets that don’t just come alive with the past; they are a melting pot of local pride, where independent shops and restaurants mingle side by side to showcase the region’s very best.

With this handy little guide, you too could experience all that this little Welsh wonder has to offer.  

Things To Do

(1) Hike the Hills of the Clwydian Range

Set under the shadow and wilds of the North Wales countryside, Ruthin makes for a great gateway to get up close and personal with nature. Forests, rivers and plains all surround the town and draw visitors from far and wide to experience all the beauty that the region has to offer. However, the highlight of them all is the verdant hills that make up the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley National Landscape.

Covering a 150 square mile range, these hills offer a variety of different experiences based on your fitness and skill level. Those looking to challenge themselves should consider hiking all or parts of the Offa’s Dyke Path. The most famous walks in the region, the Clwydian Range makes up the last two stages from Llandegla to Prestatyn on the coast. For those amongst you looking for something a little less exhausting, the much shorter hikes to the top of Moel Famau (mother mountain) and Foel Fenlli are accessible for all ages and offer no less stunning vistas from the summit.

(2) Follow in the Footsteps of a Welsh Hero

What moment in time turns someone from a man into a hero, and what sparks the beginning of a legend? For the Welsh hero, Owain Glyndŵr, it began in Ruthin. What started as a violent land dispute between neighbours quickly spiralled into an uprising of hope for a people who had lived under a stranger’s rule for over 200 hundred years.

Despite all efforts to ransack and burn the town to the ground, echoes still remain of Glyndŵr’s conquest in Ruthin. Starting from Plas Coch, a building dressed in the iconic region’s red sandstone, you can follow in Glwyndŵr’s footsteps as he marched on the town and made himself a legend. From there, make your way to Ruthin Castle, where this Welsh hero’s mark can be felt at its fullest. The ruins of this once mighty fortress bear the scars of sacrifice and bloody battles. Finally, follow his legend towards the present day at the side of the Star Inn pub. A testament to his endearing legacy, you’ll find an emblematic mural that encapsulates Glyndŵr’s might as a Welsh warrior.  

(3) Go Contemporary at the Ruthin Craft Centre

Opened in 2008, the Ruthin Craft Centre has developed a reputation as one of North Wales’s foremost venues for the arts. Set in a striking, if a little off-kilter, modernist building designed by Serigison Bates, the centre holds three galleries and a host of artists’ studios all firmly focused on the contemporary scene. A place for art lovers of all kinds, its exhibits feature everything from sculpture to multimedia installations.

(4) Shop Till You Drop at the Town’s Independent Shops

For all you shopaholics out there, Ruthin has you covered. Encompassing several streets, the town’s historic centre is chock-full of independent and unique retailers. First on your radar should be Elfair’s on Clwyd Street. A true celebration of Welsh heritage, this shop is about all things Wales. From Welsh-language books to artworks by local artists, you’ll always come away with something inspired and meaningful.

Afterwards, head on down to one of the oldest abodes in town, which now holds the Dreamatorium. Aptly named, it’s a weird cornucopia of fantasy and fairytales that needs to be seen to be believed. Finally, make your way to the market square and towards the town institution, Siop Nain. A gift shop/café, the grade II listed building was also the first to print the Welsh national anthem, Mae Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau.

(5) Get a Look at Life Behind Bars

From within the cold, uninviting walls of the isolated prison cells, the past whispers with tales of thieves and ghosts within Ruthin Gaol. As you explore the sparse, dimly lit environment, be sure to uncover the many characters that called this place home, like the daring Welsh Houdini or John Hughes, the last man in the prison to be hanged.

Open to all visitors from spring until autumn, this purpose-built Pentonville-style prison covers 300 years of history and is well-worth an afternoon of exploration.

Food and Drink

Alongside its wealth of activities, Ruthin has plenty of restaurants that are bursting with flavour and originality. After a day-long explore of this Clwydian jewel’s sites, head on down to Upper Clwyd Street’s Small Plates. A relatively recent addition to the town, its ethos focuses on social, cosy dining, dedicated to the enjoyment of eating and drinking. Opting for a Mediterranean-style menu, the restaurant offers a range of tapas options, including gluten-free and vegan alternatives.

In the nearby village of Bodfari, The Dinorben Arms makes for a great choice after a hike in the nearby Clwydian range. Set in the shadow of the church of St Stephen, this public house is rumoured to have been running since the mid-17^th century. Today, expect a warm welcome and a host of hearty dining options, as this pub has become a hub for walkers and the local community alike.

For the café culture vultures amongst you, Ruthin also has you covered. On Clwyd Street, be sure to visit the newly opened Nest café. As well as serving scrumptious cakes, the establishment also caters to lunch and brunch options. Also worth a look is Rhewl’s Sugar Plum tearoom. Just five minutes’ drive from Ruthin, it offers a wide variety of cakes as well as an interesting gift shop known as the Old Station.

Places To Stay

Being a small town, the amount of lodging is understandably slim. However, Ruthin is a true believer in quality over quantity, so the hotels they do have are brimming with history and class.

The Ruthin Castle Hotel

Located at the end of Ruthin’s most historic street, The Ruthin Castle Hotel can trace its origins all the way back to the early medieval period. Over its 800 years of history, it has seen the likes of Welsh royalty and Welsh heroes, and staying in one of its 60 rooms (starting at £84 a night) will instantly transport you back to the town’s importance as a 13^th-century administrative powerhouse.

The Manorhaus Hotel

Another great option is the Manorhaus Hotel, located in the centre of town. From just £90 a night, you’ll get a small double room within the picturesque setting of a well-preserved Georgian abode.

When to Go

While Ruthin is considered a year-round destination, it’s best to visit the town during the late spring/early summer months of May and June, or in the early autumn. During these months, the town comes alive with activities and avoids the more treacherous conditions that come with hiking in the changeable weather conditions that the winter months bring.

How To Get There

Located in Denbighshire, under an hour from the Welsh border, Ruthin is best reached via the cities of Chester, Liverpool or Manchester. From there, there are two options: by bus or by car (there’s no train station in the town or nearby).

By bus, the easiest way to get to Ruthin is on the TrawsCymru, which runs every hour from Chester and takes around 1 hour 20 minutes. For a more laid-back, scenic experience, however, the best option to reach the town is by car. No matter which direction you approach this ancient town from, the journey will always offer up something interesting. From the south, the road winds around the wilds of the Nant Y Garth Pass and the lush forests of Llandegla. Approach from the north, and your road trip to Ruthin will take you straight across the hills of the Clwydian range, as well as the beautiful vistas that come with it.