SEK TRAVELS

Continuing the Bergen travel series, my explorations through the city takes a trip down through the backstreets.

Bergen rewards exploration. To the city’s visitors, this comes as no surprise, as Norway’s second-largest population centre is encapsulated by fjords, mountains and Norwegian woodlands. However, this ethos surrounding exploration also counts towards Bergen’s urban scene. Wander a stone’s throw beyond the main sites around the harbour, and this Nordic gem unveils a treasure trove of hidden alleyways and historic houses.

Once off the main streets of the city’s historic centre, uncovering its little pockets of architectural joy doesn’t take long. Just behind the Mt. Fløyen funicular, the steeply ascending streets surrounding Lille Øvregaten transport its visitors back in time.

Taking on the more traditional shades of white, these pedestrianised alleyways are quaint and cobblestoned. Each separating path brings its own little surprise, with some cutting off sharply and others forced to part out of the way of a small home built to make use of every little piece of land the mountainous terrain offers.

Part residential and part commercialised, the area surrounding Lille Øvregaten Street is also dotted with several independent shops and cafes to break up the snapping spree. Det Lille Kaffekompaniet, for instance, makes for a great start to your explorations, as their moist date and salted caramel muffin will set anyone up for a full day’s worth of urban adventuring.  

Continuing beyond the length of Lille Øvregaten, the path eventually splits, and the whitewashed homes are replaced by something altogether more colourful. Under the brief moments of the Norwegian sunshine, the streets between Øvre Korskirkeallmenningen and Bernhard Meyers vei shine effervescently with their kaleidoscope of primary colours.

Set on a series of twisting streets and more exposed to the sea views down below, they offer a fresher, more modern perspective that is no less beautiful than the cobblestone alleys just a few hundred meters west.

Bergen’s wooden treasures aren’t only confined to the historic centre and can also be found further afield. Almost exactly opposite to the old harbour, the district of Nordnes is quieter, yet no less impressive. Here, the pollard spruce led the way to the top of the small hill where the best houses in the area can be spotted. In a series of cobbled streets and more open squares, the houses are a healthy split between the traditional white and a rainbow’s worth of bright colours.

As an added extra, beneath these houses is the popular Strandgarten street, which hosts plenty of interesting eateries and independent shops.